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The Himalayas with Tensing Norgay
Portraying India
Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit
In this edition, we look at The Himalayas from the perspective of legendary mountaineer and Sherpa, Tensing Norgay.
You would think that the most popular thing about one of the two men who first climbed the Mount Everest would be their physique, their strength. Yet, everyone who ever met Tensing Norgay could not help raving about his generous and endearing smile. As an Indian reporter in Darjeeling said a few years after his ascent in 1958, “People call him the Tiger of the Snows, but I would call him the Laughing Cavalier.”
A man who needs no introduction, Tensing, along with Edmund Hilary, was one of the first two people to ascent the Mount Everest or Chomolungma (The Mother of the Earth) as Sherpas and Tibetans call it. In his kindness, softness and generosity, Tensing Norgay was an ode to the fact that climbing mountains is as much a feat of love, as it is of strength.
A man who needs no introduction, Tensing, along with Edmund Hilary, was one of the first two people to ascent the Mount Everest or Chomolungma (The Mother of the Earth) as Sherpas and Tibetans call it. In his kindness, softness and generosity, Tensing Norgay was an ode to the fact that climbing mountains is as much a feat of love, as it is of strength.
A Mysterious Childhood
Born in the village of Thami, probably in 1915, he knew he was born in late May by the weather and the crops. Originally named Namgyal Wangdi, his name was changed to Tensing Norgay, which translates to ‘wealthy-fortunate-follower-of-religion’ at the recommendation of head lama and founder of Rongbuk Monastery, Ngawang Tenzin Norbu. A fiesty kid, he ran away from home twice, but at the age of 19 found his home amongst the Sherpa community in the Too Song Busti district of Darjeeling.
Before the successful expedition to the Everest peak in 1953, Tensing went on 9 expeditions with different teams to scope out the region. From being the high-altitude porter on the first three to the Sirdar (Sherpa leader) on the last few, Tensing climbed the Everest both physically and mentally.
Before the successful expedition to the Everest peak in 1953, Tensing went on 9 expeditions with different teams to scope out the region. From being the high-altitude porter on the first three to the Sirdar (Sherpa leader) on the last few, Tensing climbed the Everest both physically and mentally.
A Humble Man
Before and after his climb on the Everest, Tensing never had any airs about him and live humbly in Darjeeling. After the summit, he received tourists and visitors in his Darjeeling flat, where he exhibited his gear, trophies, and photographs, as a quasi-museum. He never charged a fee to meet or to share his experiences, and redirected all contributions towards the welfare of Sherpas in Darjeeling.
For Tensing, the climb on Everest was much more a feat of human strength or a motivation for national fame. He deemed it a pilgrimage that he was reborn to make, according to Buddhist beliefs. When he reached the summit, he said a prayer, made an offering, and planted a string of flags (for Britain, Nepal, India, and the United Nations) in a spot that looked down on Tibetan soil.
For Tensing, the climb on Everest was much more a feat of human strength or a motivation for national fame. He deemed it a pilgrimage that he was reborn to make, according to Buddhist beliefs. When he reached the summit, he said a prayer, made an offering, and planted a string of flags (for Britain, Nepal, India, and the United Nations) in a spot that looked down on Tibetan soil.
“Like the Buddhist Wheel of Life, my own life had made its great turning. I was back with Everest - with Chomolungma- where I started; with the dreams of a boy who looked up from the herd of yaks. Only now the dream had come true."
The Legacy of a Life-Long Sherpa
A life-long Sherpa, after his climb and eventual retirement, he continued to champion the cause of better pay and recognition for Sherpas who risked their lives and centuries of generational wisdom for tourists and mountaineers. To popularize mountaineering as a sport, as well as train sherpas for expeditions, he became first Director of Field Training of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, when it was set up in 1954. Not only did it provide him with financial stability after he stopped climbing, but also created opportunities of institutional recognition for the act of being a Sherpa.
Perhaps, one of the only people in the world to be recognised with state honors from Britain (George Medal), India (Padma Bhushan), Nepal (Order of the Star of Nepal) and Soviet Union (Merited Master of Sport of the USSR), Tensing was a global citizen.
Perhaps, one of the only people in the world to be recognised with state honors from Britain (George Medal), India (Padma Bhushan), Nepal (Order of the Star of Nepal) and Soviet Union (Merited Master of Sport of the USSR), Tensing was a global citizen.
Discovering Himalayas
Tonglu Trek
For those of us who don’t dream of climbing the Everest, a few glimpses of the peak are on the bucket list. The scenic Tonglu-Tumling trek is an enjoyable experience hiking through rhododendron forests, breathing in the mountain air and ultimately, getting that rewarding view of Mt. Kanchenjunga and if you’re lucky of the Mount Everest family. Passing through villages, this trek is a peek into the life of the mountain folk.
Rumtek Monastery
Sikkim was a small independent Buddhist kingdom until the 1970s, after which it became a state of India. Situated in the lap of Sikkim, surrounded by paddy fields, Rukmtek Monastery is the largest in Sikkim and renowned for its beautiful Tibetan architecture. The monastery houses some of the rarest Buddhist religious art objects found in the world. Visit this monastery to learn more about how it became the seat of the Kargyu sect of Buddhism.
While you’re near the Himalayas
If you enjoy trekking and mountaineering, and hope to follow in Tensing’s footsteps, do make a trip to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, where he was cremated and where his feat is decorated at the museum. Entering into Darjeeling on the toy train adds to the charm! While you’re there, do not forget to gorge on the delicious street food, especially momos. As you’re walking the towns, do not miss the monasteries, temples and stupas, all of which lend an air of sprituality to the area. You might consider making a trip to Nepal, for its charming mountain life, breathtaking mountain views and mouth-watering mountain delicacies.
Recommendations for Further Exploration
At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world.
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