Portraying India
Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit
In this edition, we look at Jaipur from the perspective of royalty Maharani Gayatri Devi.
‘A Dream in Sari and Jewels’, ‘The Most Beautiful Woman on Earth’, ‘Maharani of Jaipur’—there is no dearth of titles to describe Maharani Gayatri Devi. A remarkable woman, who lived a life full of love for people and the greatest treasures money could buy, she keenly understood her responsibilities as a leader. Such was her aura that she featured twice in the Guinness Book of World Records – indirectly, for partaking in the world’s costliest wedding (her stepdaughter’s), and directly, winning the 1962 elections by a staggering 175,000 votes, at the time the largest majority won by one candidate in an election of a democratic country.
Growing up in Cooch-Behar, a small town in the Bengal province of British India, she was brought up by progressive parents and grandparents to believe in herself and her dreams. She married the man she chose, hosted lavish parties, joined politics post independence and fought fearlessly for the rights of women, always with a focus on her duty towards her subjects and her nation.
High-Born Princess
Ayesha, as she was lovingly known to her family and friends, was born to Prince Jitendra Narayan of Cooch Behar, presently in West Bengal, and Maratha Princess Indira Raje of Baroda, the only daughter of Maratha King, Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III, an extremely beautiful princess and a legendary socialite. Her father, who ascended to the throne after her uncle’s death and died shortly after, was mostly an absence she remembers fondly. Strong influences of her mother and grandparents lingered in how she lived her life.
Growing up, Gayatri Devi felt out of place amongst her sisters who were good at hosting, entertaining and graces expected from a princess. She, on the other hand, like her mother, enjoyed sports and looking after the matters of the state. With an erratic schedule, that depended on the family affairs, studied at Glendower Preparatory School in London, Patha Bhavana of Visva-Bharati University, Shantiniketan, and later in Lausanne, Switzerland. Moving across Europe and India as a child, she became accustomed to being a global citizen, comfortable of her place in the world.
People’s Princess
Maharani Gayatri Devi met Sawai Man Singh II, heir to the Maharaja of Jaipur and a notable polo player, at a polo tournament in Kolkata. It wasn’t exactly love at first sight since the Maharani was all but 12 then. Throughout multiple encounters in her adolescence though, she developed strong feelings for whom she fondly called ‘Jai’. Initially opposed to her marrying a man with two wives, seeing the genuine affection between the two, the family relented.
Though she had royal blood, Maharani Gayatri Devi had lived a simple life that revolved around her family and royal subjects. After the modernity of Cooch Behar, she quickly adapted to the grandeur of Jaipur and was welcomed by the locals with open arms. Celebrating festivities with splendour, taking care of the household at Rambagh Palace and working with the women at Red Cross during war, Maharani Gayatri Devi showed tremendous capability as a ruler. After independence, when the Princely States were dissolved into the democratic government structure, she channeled her love for crafts and her efforts towards women’s empowerment in becoming a political leader for the people of Jaipur.
Though she had royal blood, Maharani Gayatri Devi had lived a simple life that revolved around her family and royal subjects. After the modernity of Cooch Behar, she quickly adapted to the grandeur of Jaipur and was welcomed by the locals with open arms. Celebrating festivities with splendour, taking care of the household at Rambagh Palace and working with the women at Red Cross during war, Maharani Gayatri Devi showed tremendous capability as a ruler. After independence, when the Princely States were dissolved into the democratic government structure, she channeled her love for crafts and her efforts towards women’s empowerment in becoming a political leader for the people of Jaipur.
“As time goes by, everything changes. You start seeing things from a different perspective. Really, the toughest thing in life is to live without people you love. It was tough when I had to be on my own after I lost my mother, brother and husband, Jai. But I've had a very happy life. No regrets.”
Championing the Cause for Women Empowerment
The Maharani was way ahead of the times. Reading her memoir one might think of a woman who lived in India in the 90s. At a time when traditional gender roles were prevalent, Maharani Gayatri Devi shed the practice of purdah and rode horses. She was an accomplished equestrian and a skilled polo player, shattering stereotypes about what was considered “appropriate” for women of her station. ‘People’s Princess’ as she was, what she did influenced her subjects greatly.
Her husband, the Maharaja, encouraged her to speak out against the practice of purdah and she convinced him that the only way to curb the practice was by setting up a school to make changes as the ground level. She set up Maharani Gayatri Devi Girls school with 40 students and one English teacher which later became one of the best in the country. More than 30000 girls and women benefitted through her educational initiatives.
Discovering Jaipur
Reminiscent of the splendour of the erstwhile Maharani, Jaipur is even today a regal place lined with palaces. It is also called ‘Chota Kashi’ because of the density of temples in the city. From museums dedicated to jewellery to generational eateries serving up delicious kachoris, Jaipur is for those who want to experience culture uninhibited.
Amber Fort
Technically located outside Jaipur, sitting on top a hill in the village of Amber, Amber Fort and Palace served as a getaway for the royals. Apart from the magnanimity of the fort, it also has many underground tunnels from the fort to Jaigarh fort. Perhaps one of the best examples of Rajasthani architecture that still stands today, it is a must visit.
Galtaji Temple
Located on the outskirts of Jaipur, it consists of a series of temples built into a narrow crevice in the ring of hills that surrounds Jaipur. The temple is known for its natural springs, the water from which accumulates in tanks (kunds). There are seven tanks, the holiest being the Galta Kund, which never goes dry.
City Palace
Combining elements from Mughal and Rajut architectural styles, City Palace was constructed to function as the ceremonial and administrative seat of the Maharaja of Jaipur. In fact, Maharani Gayatri Devi used to call City Palace home. Today it operates as a museum and preserves the legacy of the royals in the many secret rooms that are spread throughout like a maze.
Jawahar Kala Kendra
Designed in 1986 by Charles Correa and commissioned by the Rajasthan state government to preserve Rajasthani Arts and Crafts, JKK is a vibrant centre for culture in the city. Echoing the original plan for of Jaipur city based on the nine square Yantra, Correa’s plan for the Kendra invokes directly the original navagraha or nine house mandala.
Recommendations for Further Exploration
At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world.
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