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Varanasi with Pandit Ravi Shankar
Portraying India
Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit
In this edition, we look at Varanasi from the perspective of legendary musician Pandit Ravi Shankar
The practice of Indian classical music is rooted in Vedic literature. To understand and be a musician in the tradition is not just a skill, it is a lifestyle. Practitioners of Indian classical music often consider time spent in Varanasi, also known as Kashi, one of the oldest continously living cities across the world, as a pilgrimage. To be born there and to become a musician in the tradition, then, is considered the highest honor destiny can bestow one.
This honor was bestowed on Pandit Ravi Shankar. Born to an illustrious father, he was as much a showman as he was a musician. With his unique ability to navigate the art world while also nurturing his creativity, he created an appreciation for Indian classical music in the West. Even today, musicians from all traditions make a pilgrimage to Varanasi, seeking to partake in the energy that birthed Pandit Ravi Shankar.
A Childhood of Art Education
Born in Benaras during the 20s as the youngest of seven brothers, Pandit Ravi Shankar was doted on by everyone in the family. Despite 20 years younger than his oldest brother, the legendary choreographer Uday Shankar, he formed a strong bond with him once his father moved to London. In the holy city of Benaras, he relished the vibrant and music-rich religious life all around him. Every morning he woke up to the chants of Pujaris, cacophony of temple bells and the sound of Rajendra, his brother’s morning Raga practice. Inspired by the music and songs of Rabindranath Tagore, Pandit Ravi Shankar began imitating them on the harmonium, losing himself in their story.
When Uday Shankar set up a troupe in Paris, Pandit Ravi Shankar travelled and eventually joined in at the age of 13, playing instruments like the tabla and esraj. It was when Ustad Alauddin Khan joined the troupe for a year, that Pandit Ravi Shankar found his guru and returned to Maihar to become a disciple of Sitar under him.
When Uday Shankar set up a troupe in Paris, Pandit Ravi Shankar travelled and eventually joined in at the age of 13, playing instruments like the tabla and esraj. It was when Ustad Alauddin Khan joined the troupe for a year, that Pandit Ravi Shankar found his guru and returned to Maihar to become a disciple of Sitar under him.
Travelling the West
While travelling with his brother’s troupe in Paris, Pandit Ravi Shankar was peturbed by the derogatory and apathetic view towards Indian classical music. After he took formal leave from his guru, and began performing in Bombay, he was noticed by expats and diplomats who found in his music a new approach to the tradition. A crucial moment in his journey to the international stage came when he was introduced to Yehudi Menuhin, a Western violinist, in 1952. Menuhin invited Pandit Ravi Shankar in 1955 to perform in New York City for a demonstration of Indian classical music, sponsored by the Ford Foundation.
From there on, Pandit Ravi Shankar dedicated his life to international collaborations that increased an understanding of Indian classical music. He performed extensively across the US, UK and Europe, sharing knowledge and gaining students. Its true that he was a Sitar maestro, but it was his showmanship and stage presence, that converted fans to followers and students. In 1970, became chair of the Department of Indian Music of the California Institute of the Arts. For his collaboration with Yehudi Menuhin and live album of the Concert for Bangladesh, he won Grammys, further catapulting him to international fame.
“Varanasi is the eternal abode of Lord Shiva, and one of my favorite temples is that of Lord Hanuman, the monkey god. The city is also where one of the miracles that have happened in my life took place: I met Ma Anandamayi, a great spiritual soul. Seeing the beauty of her face and mind, I became her ardent devotee. Sitting at home now in Encinitas, in Southern California, at the age of 88, surrounded by the beautiful greens, multi-colored flowers, blue sky, clean air, and the Pacific Ocean, I often reminisce about all the wonderful places I have seen in the world. I cherish the memories of Paris, New York, and a few other places. But Varanasi seems to be etched in my heart”
An Enduring Legacy
Pandit Ravi Shankar was looked up to by his contemporaries and students for his relentless dedication to developing a unique style with the Sitar, making him one of the most accomplished sitar players of the 20th century. His influence, though, was intricately connected to his ability to understand how to create a bridge between the West and the East to create an understanding of Indian music. He set up the Kinnara School of Indian Music and Culture in California to introduce Western students to the rudiments of Indian music which could then be followed up with advanced study when they travelled to India.
From the Grammys to the Bharat Ratna, all authorities across the globe recognised his influence on global music. With his nuanced understanding of the foundations of classical Indian music and his skill with innovative approaches to composition, Pandit Ravi Shankar struck a balance that drew in people, regardless of geography and profession.
Discovering Varanasi
As one of the oldest continously inhabited city in the world, it is hard to describe Varanasi in words. A popular pilgrimage center, it is considered a holy place to dip in the Ganga, to be born in or to die in. If there is a spiritual path you’re on or even if you’re not, Varanasi is sure to capture your mind, body and soul.
Attend the Ganga Aarti at the Ghats
The holiest river in North India, Ganga, flows along the ghats of Varanasi. In particular veneration to Lord Shiva, every evening devotees across the world immerse themselves in the worship of the Shiva and Shakti on the ghats and on boats near the ghat. It is magical, not only for devotees, but for anyone who holds a place for sprituality in their hearts.
Learn Indian Classical Music from a Guru
Beyond entertainment, classical music in Varanasi holds a profound spiritual significance, forging a divine connection between artist, audience, and cosmic vibrations. Here, gurus do not discriminate based on your background or heritage, but welcome you into their fold and nurture your talent to leave you at a place where you can take it forward on your own.
Touch the Magic of Banarasi Saree
Banarasi Sarees are counted amongst the finest across the country and are known for their intricate gold & silver zari work. The saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate designs, and, because of these engravings, are relatively heavy. Reserved for special occassions, they are often a part of a bride’s trosseau, making them a once in a lifetime purchase.
Taste Local Treats in the Streets
Although one has to be weary while eating street food, Varanasi’s street food is considered holy because the city is the abode of Shiva. Extremely hygenic and deliciously mouth-watering, it is hard to miss it as you walk the narrow alleyways that lead to the Ganga. All time favourites include tamatar chaat, kachori sabzi and palak patta chaat.
Recommendations for Further Exploration
At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world.
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