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Ladakh with the Brokpas
Portraying India
Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit
In this edition, we look at Ladakh from the perspective of the Brokpas, keepers of an ancient way of life.
The Himalayas are home to communities that have adapted to challenging climate and landscapes. In the remote villages of Dha, Hanu, Darchik, and Garkon, along the banks of the Indus River, the Brokpa community has nurtured a way of life that is simple, shaped by the realities of the mountains and valleys around them. The name ‘Brokpa,’ meaning ‘highlander,’ was given to them by the Baltis, a Tibetan-origin group from Baltistan, to the local Dardic communities, Indo-Aryan people who have long lived in the upper reaches of these rugged lands, shaping a way of life attuned to the land.
Their origins, passed down through generations of oral storytelling, are layered with different beliefs and speak of a community who have long celebrated a respectful exchange with the natural world. Life here moves to the rhythm of the land, marked by songs for every occasion – welcoming a newborn, coming of age, sowing seeds, harvesting crops, and celebrating weddings and festivals. These melodies are a tribute to the changing seasons, the cycle of life, and the enduring bond between the Brokpas and their land.
The Last of the Aryans
Legends trace the Brokpa’s ancestry to soldiers from Alexander the Great’s army, believed to have settled near Gilgit-Baltistan before making their way to these remote Ladakhi valleys. While history offers no certainty, their distinct Indo-Aryan language, Brokskat, and cultural traditions hint at early Indo-Aryan migrations. Living in these isolated valleys, the community remained largely untouched by external influences until relatively recently.
The Brokpa community follows a belief system that blends animism with pre-Buddhist Bon traditions, rather than the Tibetan Buddhism practiced by most Ladakhis. They worship mountain deities, sacred trees, and natural forces, reflecting a worldview where nature and ancestry are deeply connected.
The Brokpa community follows a belief system that blends animism with pre-Buddhist Bon traditions, rather than the Tibetan Buddhism practiced by most Ladakhis. They worship mountain deities, sacred trees, and natural forces, reflecting a worldview where nature and ancestry are deeply connected.
Flowers, Identity, and Continuity
The Brokpa headgear, ‘Kho’ or ‘Tepi,’ is a symbol of identity, worn primarily on special occasions and festivities. Made from sheep’s wool, it is adorned with fresh flowers, juniper, peacock feathers, and sacred herbs – believed to bring prosperity and ward off negative energy. Old silver coins, often sewn into the fabric, connect wearers to their ancestors, while a small needle is tucked inside for protection and good luck.
The Tepi evolves with the seasons, reflecting nature’s cycles. Each bloom or herb chosen is not just decorative but carries meaning; some are linked to fertility, others to spiritual well-being. The practice of wearing fresh flowers is an offering to the land, honouring its abundance.
The Tepi evolves with the seasons, reflecting nature’s cycles. Each bloom or herb chosen is not just decorative but carries meaning; some are linked to fertility, others to spiritual well-being. The practice of wearing fresh flowers is an offering to the land, honouring its abundance.
“The culture is changing. While we still adhere to our traditions, our traditional songs are slowly fading away with the younger generation showing less interest in our culture.”
Stewards of the Land
For generations, the Brokpa tribe of Ladakh has preserved a delicate balance between human needs and environmental conservation. Their traditional kanals are irrigation channels that divert water from glacial melt to irrigate crops like barley and wheat, vital in this arid landscape. Carefully maintained, these channels prevent waste in a region where water is scarce.
Beyond farming, the Brokpas practice seasonal livestock migration, moving between high-altitude summer pastures and lower-altitude winter grazing grounds. This prevents overgrazing, allowing the land to regenerate and ensuring long-term ecological stability. These practices are rooted in their spiritual beliefs, with sacred groves, water sources, and natural landmarks protected as part of their way of life.
Modernization is reshaping the Brokpa way of life. While roads, communication infrastructure, and electricity have improved access to healthcare, education, and markets, they also threaten traditional self-sufficiency. Farming and grazing are becoming less viable due to environmental and social shifts, prompting many to turn to military, tourism, and trade for livelihood. Long insulated from external influences, the community now stands at a crossroads, navigating the challenge of preserving their identity while adapting to change.
Beyond farming, the Brokpas practice seasonal livestock migration, moving between high-altitude summer pastures and lower-altitude winter grazing grounds. This prevents overgrazing, allowing the land to regenerate and ensuring long-term ecological stability. These practices are rooted in their spiritual beliefs, with sacred groves, water sources, and natural landmarks protected as part of their way of life.
Modernization is reshaping the Brokpa way of life. While roads, communication infrastructure, and electricity have improved access to healthcare, education, and markets, they also threaten traditional self-sufficiency. Farming and grazing are becoming less viable due to environmental and social shifts, prompting many to turn to military, tourism, and trade for livelihood. Long insulated from external influences, the community now stands at a crossroads, navigating the challenge of preserving their identity while adapting to change.
Discovering the Aryan Valley
Set against rugged mountains, the valley’s terraced fields, thriving apricot and walnut orchards thrive in a unique microclimate. The Indus River sustains these settlements, while the surrounding terrain remains largely untouched. The valley’s isolation has preserved its unique cultural and linguistic heritage, making it one of the most distinct regions in Ladakh.
Witness the Bono-na festival
In the winter months, the Bono-na festival marks the harvest season, held alternately in Garkon and Dha. Villagers offer barley, milk, and flowers to their deities, seeking blessings for a prosperous year. The festival also includes a ceremonial bonfire, where villagers gather to sing age-old songs.
Sip Gur-Gur Cha with the locals
A staple in high-altitude regions, Gur-Gur Cha is a salty butter tea made by churning brewed tea leaves with butter and salt. Sharing a cup in a Brokpa home is an intimate way to experience their hospitality, often accompanied by stories of the valley’s past.
Join the Apricot harvest
The Aryan Valley’s apricot orchards burst into colour each summer; their branches heavy with golden fruit. The Brokpas sun-dry their harvest on rooftops, preserving its sweetness for winters. Taste fresh and dried apricots, homemade jams, and the prized grape wine, distilled fresh in small batches.
Decode ancient Petroglyphs in Domkhar
Near the Brokpa villages, Domkhar Rock Art Sanctuary preserves petroglyphs of ibex, hunters, and sun motifs, dating back over 2,000 years. Visiting these sites, set against the dramatic Indus Valley landscape, is a unique way to connect with the region’s earliest inhabitants.
Recommendations for Further Exploration
To Watch
Forgotten Aryan Tribes by Benoy K Behl
Ladakh Literature Festival: Brokpa Dance by Ladakh Tourism
Wilting Flowers, Fading Songs: DOCUMENTING a vanishing culture from the Western Himalayas
The Man Who Would Be King by John Huston
Forgotten Aryan Tribes by Benoy K Behl
Ladakh Literature Festival: Brokpa Dance by Ladakh Tourism
Wilting Flowers, Fading Songs: DOCUMENTING a vanishing culture from the Western Himalayas
The Man Who Would Be King by John Huston
To Read
Social Change, Religion and Medicine among Brokpas of Ladakh by Veena Bhasin
Brokpa Tribe in India, Ladakh by Priya Krishnan Raj
Cultural Encyclopedia of the Dard Tribe by Suheel Rasool Mir
Social Change, Religion and Medicine among Brokpas of Ladakh by Veena Bhasin
Brokpa Tribe in India, Ladakh by Priya Krishnan Raj
Cultural Encyclopedia of the Dard Tribe by Suheel Rasool Mir
At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world.
Where should we go today?
Where should we go today?