Gujarat with the Rabaris

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Gujarat with the Rabaris

Portraying India

Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit

In this edition, we look at Gujarat from the perspective of its indigenous people, the Rabaris.
If you look at a terrestrial map of India, you’ll find that the West is made up entirely of the desert. For long distances, the sparsity of the landscape is interrupted only by sandunes and clusters of villages housed by the locals. In the state of Gujarat, these villages are often populated by Rabaris, a nomadic pastoral community indigenous to north-west India.
Traditionally Rabaris are camel herders wandering in the arid regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan in search of food and water for themselves and their animals. In recent times, they have also begun maintaining flocks of sheep and goats. As caretakers of their herd, they are deeply attached to the animals who not only form the basis of their economic progress but also provide them company on their long nomadic travels across the country. From their patterns of migration to the fields they choose to settle in temporarily, the Rabaris’ life revolves around their herd.
From Mountains to Deserts
Despite being presiding deities in the pantheon of Gods that make up Hinduism, Shiva and Parvati were not immune to loneliness. Without anyone to share her life with, except Shiva, Parvati was struck by loneliness and created the figure of a camel from her own body. Shiva gave life to this figure and created Sambad, the first Rabari to look after this camel. After a few years, Shiva and Parvati arranged a match for Sambad with the Apsara named ‘Rai’.

Eventually, Sambad and Rai migrated out of Himalayas and travelled across Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan and Gujarat, settling branches along the way. Even today, Rabari clans are found across all these states under different names such as Pal in Punjab and Raika in Rajasthan. Kachhis, Vagadias and Dhebarias are the three broad sub-groups of the Rabari community who reside in Kutch. The Kachhi sub-group in contemporary times lead sedentary lifestyle but still keep animals like cows, sheep, goat and camels in certain cases.
Of Enterprising Spirit
The region of Kutch where the Rabaris live are unending stretches of desert and salt flats. To counter the extreme climates and uncertainty of the landscape, the Rabaris live in circular huts, known as “Bhunga”. Made of locally available materials such as clay, wood and thatch, these huts are renowned for their resistance to earthquakes. Though they require regular maintainence in the form of mud layers, they have sustained the Rabari community for centuries.

It is not just the houses that are a symbol of Rabari entrepreneurship. Popular for its intricate patterns and colorful threads, Rabari embroidery is practiced by most women. Rabari embroidery is characterized by chain stitches and a generous use of mirrors. The women depict the world around them, without the help of sketches or patterns. The only material used is a simple needle and thread, which they purchase from Bhuj, the nearby town.

“We give importance to the traditional knowledge and the skill of artists who work with us. We don't guide them as to which colour or design to use. We leave it all to them. They use their traditions and knowledge. The only permanent solution we can give them is what new products can be created and what shape they could take. So, I feel, we aren't letting go of tradition. Rather we are encouraging innovation within tradition. They innovate within the bounds of tradition and advance their craft. This way there is a balance between both tradition and the market.”

Modernisation and Preservation
Like many indigenous groups across the country, the Rabaris’ pride the informal knowledge that they’ve gained over centuries. However, with modern education, many youngsters are forsaking the traditional ways of being for industrialized ones. No government aid is yet available for the Rabari maaldhari while they also find it difficult to adjust in professional industrial sectors. Their knowledge systems, skills and intelligence are not conducive for a sedentary lifestyle.

All is not lost though. Over the years, many NGOs and social enterprises have understood the role of Rabari embroidery in the empowerment of women and taken the task of protecting it. Rabari Pabiben is the first community woman who has brought together several Rabari women artisans with the aim of reviving the art and empowering the women of her community. NGOs such as Kala Raksha and Shrujan continue to raise awareness about the Rabaris through their work in shaping policies.
Discovering Kutch
Kutch, which literally means intermittently wet or dry, is a salt marshland in the state of Gujarat. With its unique topography, it is home to many local and migratory bird species, and the last sanctuary of the Indian wild ass. Apart from the flora and fauna, it is also a popular destination for the traditional lifestyle followed by the tribes of the area.
Enjoy local culture at Rann Utsav
As the light of full moon transcends the white landscape of Kutch over the months from November to March, discover the dance, music and food of the region at the festival of Rann Utsav. The colorful fairs held near the beach or the banks of a lake swings one with the spirit of festivity, fervor and flamboyancy.
Learn History at Patan and Dholavira
Dholavira is an ancient city of the Harappan Civilisation, situated on the arid island of Khadir near Kutch. Occupied from 3000-1500 BCE, the city’s unique location and strategic position made it an important centre of trade and commerce in the region. Multiple archeological digs have revealed tremendous information about world history.
Discover local crafts in Bhujodi
Apart from the Rabari embroidery, this region is also home to ancient Rogan art and ship-building traditions that are practiced even today. A large part of the Vankar community resides here. These are specialists in weaving, tie and dye and other craft forms that make the backbone of Kutch’s handicraft scene.
Experience Jainism at Palitana
The Palitana temples on Shatrunjaya Hill were built over a period of 900 years starting from the 11th century. One of Jainism’s holiest pilgrimage sites, the temples are imbibed with the history of the region with architectural influences from other cultures as they were destroyed and rebuilt over centuries.
Recommendations for Further Exploration
To Watch
Documentary on Rabari Tribes by Sindh Culture Government of Sindh
Rabari Tribe of Gujarat by IGRMS
At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world. Where should we go today?