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Jodhpur with the Bishnois
Portraying India
Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit
In this edition, we look at Jodhpur from the perspective of its indigenous people, the Bishnois.
Driving across the rugged landscape of Western India, dominated by the Thar Desert, you’ll come across patches of green that starkly contrast with the endless brown of the sand. Here in these patches thrive Bishnois, a group of people who are committed to maintaining a harmonious relationship with the environment.
The Bishnois are followers of Shree Guru Jambheshwar, affectionately known as Jambhoji. Born in 1451, he laid the philosophical and practical groundwork for the Bishnoi Panth, a distinct way of life centered on harmony with nature. By practicing his teachings, they’ve been able to live off the land and maintain a flourishing ecosystem in the harsh climate of Rajasthan’s Marwar region. Throughout centuries, the Bishnois have continued to share their beliefs with environmental protectors across the globe.
The Legend of the 29 Principles
Following a draught in the Marwar region, Jamboji laid down 29 edicts on how to live harmoniously with nature in the harsh climatic conditions of the Thar Desert. The name “Bishnoi” derives from Hindi language, in which “Bish” translates to twenty and “Noi” translates to nine. With a strong emphasis on equality, kindness and ecology, the edicts included: “do not cut green trees” and “be compassionate toward all living beings.”
While he established this edicts in the 15th century, their universality has inspired followers across the world to follow them. He lay special emphasis on protecting the trees and animals in the environment around one’s life. His logic was that if trees were protected, then the animals and people who depended on them would be protected in turn.
While he established this edicts in the 15th century, their universality has inspired followers across the world to follow them. He lay special emphasis on protecting the trees and animals in the environment around one’s life. His logic was that if trees were protected, then the animals and people who depended on them would be protected in turn.
Khejarli Massacre
The tales of the Bishnois’ bravery in service to the enviromental balance advocated by Jamboji are legendary. One of the most popular tales is set in the village of Khejarli near Jodhpur. In 1730, when Maharaja Abhay Singh, then ruler of Jodhpur, needed timber to construct the new royal palace, he sent soldiers to the Bishnoi village of Khejarli with orders to fell numerous Khejri trees—which have been sacred in Bishnoi culture.
When Amrita Devi Bishnoi, a resident of the village, was alerted to the threat, she and her daughters attempted to prevent the soldiers from cutting down the trees by hugging them. Inspired by Amrita Devi, residents from 83 Bishnoi villages gathered in Khejarli and hugged trees throughout the village. Burdened by the royal order, the soldiers cut through the bodies of the villagers. 363 Bishnoi were killed that day, including Amrita Devi and her daughters.
Nearly 230 years after it happened, the Khejarli story inspired another environmental movement—the Chipko Movement (1973) which opposed commercial logging and government’s policies on deforestation in the Tehri-Garhwal Himalaya. This, in turn, inspired the Jungle Bachao Andolan (1982) in Bihar and Jharkhand, the Appiko Chaluvali (1983) in the Western Ghats of Karnataka, and other similar protests. All these were aimed at preserving and protecting the natural environment and resulted in changing public policies.
When Amrita Devi Bishnoi, a resident of the village, was alerted to the threat, she and her daughters attempted to prevent the soldiers from cutting down the trees by hugging them. Inspired by Amrita Devi, residents from 83 Bishnoi villages gathered in Khejarli and hugged trees throughout the village. Burdened by the royal order, the soldiers cut through the bodies of the villagers. 363 Bishnoi were killed that day, including Amrita Devi and her daughters.
Nearly 230 years after it happened, the Khejarli story inspired another environmental movement—the Chipko Movement (1973) which opposed commercial logging and government’s policies on deforestation in the Tehri-Garhwal Himalaya. This, in turn, inspired the Jungle Bachao Andolan (1982) in Bihar and Jharkhand, the Appiko Chaluvali (1983) in the Western Ghats of Karnataka, and other similar protests. All these were aimed at preserving and protecting the natural environment and resulted in changing public policies.
“Sar santey rookh rahe to bhi sasto jaan” (If a tree is saved even at the cost of one's head, it's worth it)
A Living Example of Eco-Consciousness
In testament to the far-reaching vision of Jamboji, the Bishnois continue to adapt to the modern world while practicing the principles loyally. They continue their role as guardians of the environment by running animal rescue shelters, actively rehabilitating injured animals and patrolling forests to prevent poaching. In their homes, with thatched roofs, they utilize the branches and foliage from trees that are not consumed by any animals. They have mastered water harvesting techniques, organic farming, and communal efforts in reforestation and conservation, adapting to modern technology and requirements.
Discovering Jodhpur
Lined with lanes replete with houses coloured blue, Jodhpur is a bright spot in the vast expanse of desert. Towering over the city is the Meherangarh fort that leads to lanes opening into the clock tower and spice markets. Situated in the heart of the desert, at short drives from Jodhpur in every direction are villages that are home to indigenous populations, particularly the Bishnois.
Take a walk around the Bishnoi villages
To understand the reality behind the Bishnoi lifestyle it is essential to spend time with them in their environment. Organised by the members of the community, these day long experiences often involve visits to the houses of the residents, meals with them in their houses and an explanation of how they maintain their traditions.
Experience folk music at Meherangarh
Every year in October, on Sharad Purnima, the night of the brightest full moon, the Meherangarh Fort is lit up by the Rajasthan International Folk Festival. Supported by UNESCO as a part of creativity, the festival is planned to provide an open stage to all folk artists and musicians from India as well as from the globe.
Enjoy street food at the Clock Tower
As with many mountainous regions in the Himalayas, Arunachal Pradesh is home to several monasteries. The magical Tawang Gompa, is reputedly the world’s second-largest Buddhist monastery complex after Drepung Monastery (in Lhasa, Tibet). Tawang has over 400 lamas, whose yellow-roofed living quarters surround the central buildings.
Learn the art of Indigo Dyeing
Popular brands across the world have been sending their clothes to the generations of dyeing artists in the villages around Jodhpur, particularly for Indigo. These sleepy villages are also the nerve centre of the natural-dye fabric industry of Rajasthan whose earth colours, indigo dyes, and prints are a rage among the chic ethnic sophistic fashion followers in India and abroad.
Recommendations for Further Exploration
To Listen
Jodhpur with Preethi Parthasarthy by Musafir Stories
Jodhpur with Preethi Parthasarthy by Musafir Stories
To Read
The Bishnois by Franck Vogel
Great Indian Bustard: sacrificed for power by Priti David
Tribes and Castes of Rajasthan by MA Herring
The Bishnois by Franck Vogel
Great Indian Bustard: sacrificed for power by Priti David
Tribes and Castes of Rajasthan by MA Herring
At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world.
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