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Kerala with Meenakshi Raghavan
Portraying India
Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit
In this edition, we look at Kerala from the perspective of martial artist Meenakshi Raghavan
Through the ages, but particularly in the last 4 centuries, the reference of a warrior brings up the image of a man wielding the most powerful weapons of their time. If we took the time to read and remember the folk tales though, more often than not, we’ll find the warrior is a woman. Meenakshi Raghavan, lovingly referred to as Meenakshi amma by her family and disciples, is one such warrior.
At 82, she has dedicated her entire life to kalaripayattu, the traditional martial arts of Kerala. Dubbed the ‘mother of all martial arts’, this centuries old folk art combines dance, yoga, defence and healing to create warriors who are equal parts grace and wrath, embodied beautifully by Meenakshi amma. In a world dedicated to war that protects imaginary borders, Meenakshi amma reminds us of the importance of training one’s body to live in harmony with the world around us.
Born to be a Warrior
Born in the early 40s, in the town of Vadakara in the Kozhikode district of North Kerala, Meenakshi amma had no choice but to be enrolled in Bharatnatyam. At the advice of her guru, her father enrolled her in kalari at the age of 7. Traditional upbringing in Kerala, particularly amongst the Thiyya community in which Meenakshi amma was born, stresses the importance of engaging in physical education to train the body. All the people in the area, regardless of gender, would go to Kalari (Kalarippayattu training centre) in those days.
She started training under her future husband, the legendary late VP Raghavan Gurukkal in 1949 at Kadathanad Kalari Sangham in Kerala. Even though Kalaripayattu was a non-negotiable for children, women were expected to give up the training at 13 and sit at home or get married. Blessed with the support of her dance guru and family, Meenakshi amma was able to continue the training till she married her Guruakkal and along with him after that. “It is so much a part of me now, just like breathing” the matriarch says now.
Journey with Kalaripayattu
In those times, there were still barriers to prevent people from lower castes from practicing Kalaripayattu. For this reason, Meenakshi amma’s husband, Guruakkal Raghavan, along with 3 of his fellow practitioners, set up Kadathanad Kalari Sangham in 1949. After their marriage, Meenakshi amma would look into the centre with her husband, taking care of the students, preparing Ayurvedic oils and training girls. Beating the stereotype that to have a successful Kalaripayattu practice you have to give up family, she gave birth to 4 children by taking breaks during pregnancies and swiftly returning to her practice.
After her husband’s death in 2007, Meenakshi amma took over the reins of the Kadathanattu Kalari Sangham continuing the tradition of running it without fee and accepting money only in the form of dakshina, the offering to a guru at the end of the year of practice.
After her husband’s death in 2007, Meenakshi amma took over the reins of the Kadathanattu Kalari Sangham continuing the tradition of running it without fee and accepting money only in the form of dakshina, the offering to a guru at the end of the year of practice.
“I want all girls and women of all ages to learn kalari. They may find it a little uneasy or difficult in the beginning. But, they can master it if they put their minds to it and it will give them physical and mental strength and energy.”
Beacon of Hope for the Future
Meenakshi amma’s family has continued the tradition of Kalarippayattu. Her two sons and two daughters also started practicing Kalaripayattu from the young age of six. One of her sons is also a ‘Gurukkal’ (kalaripayattu teacher) now. She has a particular fondness for girl children and is a strong proponent of teaching Kalaripayattu to young girls.
In 2017, since Meenakshi Amma was awarded the Padma Shri, she has received massive media coverage and support from the government to elevate the practice of Kalaripayattu in contemporary Kerala and other parts of the country. In her heart, Meenakshi amma believes she is carrying forward the work of her husband by training students of all ages and gender in the martial art. “The kalari never closes. For those who want to practice, the gurukals are always ready,” she says.
Discovering Kerala
Map by @mithil_thaker
For the cultural lover, nature lover and those who appreciate history, North Kerala is a haven. You can delve deep into the history of how different traditional cultures spread throughout the country, how economic progress led to the rise and fall of many kingdoms, dive headfirst into heaps of biriyani or immerse yourself in the middle of forests and nature. North Kerala has a never ending bounty of surprises for those who are looking.
Kumarakom
Away from the hustle and bustle of Alleppey, Kumarakom is home to the quieter ecosystem around the backwaters. From quiet rice boats floating on the backwaters at the break of dawn to the meticulous crafts being practiced in households along the coasts, Kumarakom is a peaceful abode. It is also home to a magnificent bird sanctuary ideal for those who are seeking the company of our avian friends.
Kochi
Present day capital and historically the most important port of entry, Kochi speaks volumes in the amalgamation of its culture – giant Chinese fishing nets, a 450-year-old synagogue, ancient mosques, Portuguese and Dutch colonial-era houses, and the crumbling remains of the colonial British Raj. Walking down the historical Fort Kochi, with a light breeze in your air, you can literally travel through history.
Munnar
The largest tea-growing region of South India, the rolling hills of Munnar are home to a stunning array of flora and fauna. If you seek respite from the everyday hustle bustle or relax in the lap of nature with the aroma of fresh plantation, head to Munnar’s many villages where traditions have been passed down for generations.
Thrissur
Thrissur, the cultural capital of Kerala, is home to the centres that provide trainings and accreditations in classical and folk arts. The city has historically been a centre of Hindu scholarship, and Christianity, Islam and Judaism are believed to have entered the Indian subcontinent through Thrissur and its surrounding areas.
At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world.
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