Blog
Goa with Charles Correa
Portraying India
In this edition, we look at Goa from the perspective of architect and writer Charles Correa.
In post independence India, there has been a lot of conversation around modernity, not just in lifestyles but also in art. With the rise of globalization, trends that have worked in the West made their way to India and adopted blindly in the name of innovation. In truth, though, innovation is adapting trends from the West to the unique climate, lifestyle and culture of India. One man at the intersection of indigenous architecture and innovative technology was Charles Correa.
Touted as India’s Greatest Architect by the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA), Charles worked throughout his life to build an appreciation for indigenous building material, architectural designs and mythical philosophy. Apart from being a legendary architect, he was also a prolific writer producing essays and debates that are regularly referenced by architecture schools today.
A Global Indian Citizen
Though his place of birth was Secunderabad, Goan heritage was an integral part of the household Charles Correa grew up in. He began his architectural studies in Mumbai and later pursued higher studies in the United States, first at the University of Michigan and then at MIT, graduating with a Master of Architecture degree in 1955.
Born in 1930, Charles Correa grew up in an India that was in the final stages of its freedom struggle. The feelings of nationalism and appreciation for Indian culture were baked into his personality since childhood. Once back from MIT to establish his practice in India, he began by blending local cultural values in architecture. Traditional symmetrical spaces, modernist use of materials, exemplary concrete forms and sensitivity towards site were some characteristics of his early work.
Tradition / Modernity
A deeply thinking man, when his contemporaries were following the footsteps of Mies van der Rohe, Charles Correa went in the opposite direction to create an architectural language that wed tradition with modernity. He understood how the mythic was interwoven with Indian architecture and was pragmatic about the different lifestyles in the West and India. Inspired by Corbusier, and equipped with a nuanced understanding of ethics, Charles Correa left behind a legacy of over 100 buildings – from public housing to high rises to museums – across the country.
One visit to any of his public projects strewn across the country – the Gandhi Memorial Museum in Ahmedabad, Jawahar Kala Kendra in Jaipur, British Council in Delhi, Kala Academy in Goa – is enough to be engulfed by his philosophy of the mythic within the architecture. While the Gandhi Memorial Museum reflects the simplicity of Mahatma Gandhi’s lifestyle with its use of simple building materials, the Jawahar Kala Kendra is an amalgamation of the Hindu system of Architecture, science of Vastu Shastra and geometrical patterns.
‘A good architect does not have to be fazed by working under severe economic constrains, however drastic they might be. Having perforce to use only the humblest materials, such as mud or sun-dried adobe bricks, need not prevent him from creating a joyous and triumphal piece of architecture.’
A Connection with Goa
Even though Charles spent very little time in Goa growing up, an understanding of Goan culture and traditions was imbibed in him through his family. When the time came to design Kala Bhavan in Goa, he knew the value of a public space where people could go in and out while also experience cultural programmes. Ever since the academy was built, it has truly given back to the people the piece of land it sits on and has generated curiosity in the arts and culture of the region through Correa’s ingenious design.
In his later years, Correa also built a home in Goa where he lived with his wife and daughter. Even today, the Charles Correa Foundation, which houses the archives—scans of the original drawings, photographs, models, correspondence, publications and films, operates out of Goa. Part of its mission is to continue building a professional community through public forums and producing documentary films about cities.
Discovering Goa
One of the most globally recognised destination in India, Goa has a beautifully diverse history that shows up in its culture and art. If laid-back is your way of life, then the susegad culture of Goa is right up your alley. From the fusion tastes of Indo-Portuguese cuisines to lush forests in the middle of the state, Goa truly has something for everyone.
Spend a day relaxing at the beach
The entire state of Goa lies along the West Coast of the country. In the top North, the beaches are hilly and down South, they’re calm and peaceful. The beaches are lined with shacks that serve the most lipsmacking seafood. But if what you’re looking for is a beach party then head to one of the beaches towards the centre of the state where rave culture took off in the 70s.
Learn about Indo-Portuguese Architecture
A solitary Portuguese outpost in India for almost 500 years, the influence of colonial rule can still be seen everywhere – from the churches that were some of the first in the country, to the mansions that were passed down generations and now house locals. In recent years, conservation bodies and government have begun restoring colonial buildings.
Inhale in the spice gardens
Goa’s forests give way to the uninhibited growth of spices that enriches them with flavour. Goan chillies are a famous export across the world. Walking across a spice plantation you understand not just the ecological structure of the place but also learn how it is closely tied with the economy of the state.
Taste the local brews at a tavern
The locals of Goa have a subculture of their own that is often missed by tourists. From tangy curries, spicy seafood to the local clear cashew liquor feni, the best way to immerse in Goan culture is with a local coconut picker or fisherman who is taking a break at their neighbourhood tavern before heading home.
To Watch
Volume Zero – Documentary of Charles Correa
To Listen
Z Axis: You and Your Neighbourhood
The Public, the Private & the Sacred by Charles Correa
Museums: An Alternate Typology by Charles Correa
Reflected in Water: Writings on Goa by Jerry Pinto