Tamil Nadu with the Todas

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Tamil Nadu with the Todas

Portraying India

Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit

In this edition, we look at Tamil Nadu from the perspective of its indigenous people, the Todas.
As the world rapidly descends into ecological disbalance, a lot has been written about learning to coexist with the world by learning from indigenous cultures. A key to thriving in this ecosystem is mainitaining a respectful exchange with animals and plants, rather than taking view of extraction. A stunning example of this principle of coexistence are the Todas, the oldest inhabitants of the Upper Nilgiris plateau in south India, having lived there since ancient times.
Being one of the most ancient tribes in the Deccan area, without any formal records existing since before the 18th century, their origin story is shrouded in mystery. Earlier information about them is available through their interactions with neighbouring tribes and cultural groups. While the exact origin might not be clear, it is evident that they have always been deeply connected to the landscape and consider buffaloes holy. In fact, in the successive surveys and studies of their culture, they have come to be known as the “Children of the Buffaloes”.
In Symbiosis with the Environment

Nestled in the jaw-dropping setting of the Nilgiris, they believe that each valley and mount is imbued with the spirits of their ancestors from a time when humans were divine. As people who live in close relationship to the landscape, they live in huts, called ‘munds’, made of bamboo, grass and stones. Outside their huts, they draw abstract designs that often symbolize their oral mythology and their beliefs that are closely linked with their reverence for the Earth.

Toda temples, also called ‘paluvarsh’ are also built in a similar fashion to the huts they live in. Cementing their close relationship with the land and buffaloes, the temples are used to store sacred buffalo milk. In addition to their pastoral setting and the ritualization of dairy, they practice a vegetarian way of life. Treating the buffalo as a sacred being, they follow the most respectful ways to procure various dairy products from the buffaloes.

The Legend of Toda Embroidery

Traditional embroidery, done by women in the Toda community, has distinctive red and black (and occasionally blue) thread work in geometric designs on unbleached white cotton fabric. The traditional Toda dress is a distinctive shawl, the ‘putukuli’, which is worn on special occasions like visits to the temple, festivals and finally as a shroud.

To protect the traditional knowledge and integrity of the Toda embroidery received a GI (geographical indication) certificate in 2013. The GI status for Toda embroidery means anything created outside the Nilgiris district is an infringement, as is any method of production not done by hand. In recent times, with dwindling numbers of women who can produce the original Toda embroidery, there has been an increase in the infringement of the Toda embroidery being done as a print or by machine.

Modernisation and Preservation
In testament to the far-reaching vision of Jamboji, the Bishnois continue to adapt to the modern world while practicing the principles loyally. They continue their role as guardians of the environment by running animal rescue shelters, actively rehabilitating injured animals and patrolling forests to prevent poaching. In their homes, with thatched roofs, they utilize the branches and foliage from trees that are not consumed by any animals. They have mastered water harvesting techniques, organic farming, and communal efforts in reforestation and conservation, adapting to modern technology and requirements.
Discovering Nilgiris
One of the oldest mountain ranges in the history of Earth, the Nilgiris hold memory that goes beyond written word. The Name ‘Nilgiris’ means Blue hills (Neelam – Blue and giri – Hill or Mountain), and were first mentioned as so in the first Tamil epic Silappatikaram, dated to the 2nd century CE. With its hidden waterfalls, colonial architecture, green fields, and warm hospitality, the Nilgiris are an adventure lover’s paradise.
Ride on the Mountain Railways
The the blue-and-cream-colored “toy” train that trundles between Coimbatore and Ooty via Coonoor is poignant memerobilla from the colonial era and mark of great industrial feat in those days. A train ride on this railways that passes over spectacular forest and tea-plantation views, is a great way to understand the story behind the Nilgiris.
Experience the Art of the Todas
On last count, there are less than 300 women in Nilgiris who continue to practice the Toda art of hand embroidery. Those who continue, believe in the power of this embroidery to act as bridge between the ‘modern’ and the ‘indigenous’ and often conduct interactions with guests who show genuine interest in their art.

Discover the Tea of the Nilgiris

The towns in the Nilgiris hold the unique position of being home to many indigenous tribes that are spread across the region along with colonial history that continues to be seen in the architecture and culture. While less famous than its Eastern cousin, the tea from this region is equally revered by tea connoissuers across the world.
Play with the Elephants of the Bioreserve
Elephants hold a revered place in the mountains of the Nilgiris. Throughout the region, particularly in areas of Madumalai, there are Elephant camps that rescue elephants that lose their way or are separated from their herd. Here they are bathed, fed and taken care of before hopefully being reunited with the herd.
Plan your Journey to Nilgiris
Recommendations for Further Exploration
To Watch
Ancient Indian Tribe Observed In the Modern Day | Toda – On the Edge of Paradise
Toda Tribes | Tribes of India
Art of the Toda  
To Read
Soul of the Nilgiris by Ramya Reddy
‘Copying our designs is not correct’ by Priti David for People’s Archive of Rural India
At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world. Where should we go today?
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